Days 26-28 - Samos

I have left the autonomous region of Castilla y León, and entered the even more autonomous region of Galicia - the Celtic part of Spain. The grass is greener (literally), the mountains are higher, and prices are steeper. Found several shops selling Celtic stuff; Unafforable and obviously very touristy.

Wednesday I stayed in La Faba, at a really cool vegetarians hostel made solely out of wood. Its style mixed that of an indian temple, a lumberjack's hut, a tepee and a hippie community. The Scottish hostess made dinner for us using vegetables and herbs from her own yard. After dinner we were all sat around a camp fire and listened to some Leonard Cohen while enjoying some herbal tea. The power had gone out in the village, but we had a great time all the same. Sanitation was very basic: The toilet was just a hole in the ground. We had to brush our teeth at a water pump across the street, and slept in hammocks. There are 15 people in this town and they all grow their own food, keep some livestock, make their own cheese, bread and jelly, get their water at a fountain, and use a wood-burning stove to heat their homes. Wow. These people have never even seen a grocery store.

Nothing but snow on Thursday. Made it through 10 miles of soaking mud and freezing cold. Wearing three ponchos helped for the most part, but my legs were drenched all the same. Stayed at a place in Fonfria, which wasn't overly special but warm and cozy, and they played the bagpipes. They had the heating on full, which was a welcome change from the cold weather outside. Spent most of the evening writing in my paper journal and leaning against a warm radiator.

When I woke up this morning there were at least 4 inches of snow. Not at all ideal for pilgrims wearing cheap sneakers, but my hiking shoes held up nicely. The road went downhill today, and I could see the snow turn into rain and finally into slippery mud. I had the option of going straight for the city of Sarria, straight across the mountains (i.e. more snow), or taking a little detour past a valley and an old monastery. I chose the latter, had a blast and a great view for about 12 miles, and am now staying with the monks at Samos. They have offered to give me and other pilgrims a tour of their building, that should be fun.

I am not looking forward to the last 60 miles (100km) from Sarria to Santiago. That's the most crowded part of the Way of St James, as many only cover that part to be eligible for their compostela (a certificate of accomplishment given to pilgrims on completing the Way). They are the laziest pilgrims in my opinion. Or not even pilgrims at all, they're just looking to improve their resumes (~CVs). I just hope there will be many detours available for me to avoid the hoards.